RESEARCH AXES

The 4 research axes of the GDR Bioactives & Cosmetics

The GDR is broken down into 4 research axes:

Axe 1
Sourcing :
bioactive / ingredients

Axe 2
Formulation
and vectorization

Axe 3
Targets and biological
models

Axe 4
Innocuity
and preservation

Axe 1
Sourcing :
bioactive / ingredients

Axe 2
Formulation
and vectorization

Axe 3
Targets and biological
models

Axe 4
Innocuity
and preservation

GDR 3711 COSM’ACTIFS THESE 4 AXES ARE IN VERY STRONG INTERACTIONS

Research topics

Add value to plant biomass, minimize the environmental impact, maintain biodiversity.
Develop new green and innovative technologies for the production of extracts and / or the extraction of molecules of plant origin. Use of green solvents (vegetable oils, CO2, subcritical water)
Develop new tools coupled with separation / identification to characterize the extracts and / or the extracted molecules.
Develop new eco-responsible access routes to compounds of interest to overcome the low levels of natural resources (hemi-synthesis and white, green biotechnologies).

Research topics

Add value to plant biomass, minimize the environmental impact, maintain biodiversity.
Develop new green and innovative technologies for the production of extracts and / or the extraction of molecules of plant origin. Use of green solvents (vegetable oils, CO2, subcritical water)
Develop new tools coupled with separation / identification to characterize the extracts and / or the extracted molecules.
Develop new eco-responsible access routes to compounds of interest to overcome the low levels of natural resources (hemi-synthesis and white, green biotechnologies).

Research topics

New formulations formulations with increased efficiency and organoleptic qualities.
New preservatives, stabilizers and texturing agents (surfactants, bio-polymers, etc.) of natural or bio-sourced origin (in connection with axis 1).
Emulsions without surfactants (preparation by ultra-sonication, Pickering emulsions, etc.).
Innovative encapsulation systems to improve the stability of active ingredients in formulated media and their controlled and targeted release during application, and thus increase their effectiveness.
Better understand the phenomena of instability of complex media in order to anticipate problems and thus allow new formulations to be developed more quickly.
New innovative and / or time-saving and energy-saving processes for the formulation and physico-chemical characterization: (microfluidics, sonication, etc.).
Develop innovative / alternative evaluation methods for the organoleptic properties of products freeing all or part of in vivo approaches by using physicochemical approaches.
Alternative to conventional emulsions (use of hydrotropes, dry emulsions ...).

Research topics

New formulations formulations with increased efficiency and organoleptic qualities.
New preservatives, stabilizers and texturing agents (surfactants, bio-polymers, etc.) of natural or bio-sourced origin (in connection with axis 1).
Emulsions without surfactants (preparation by ultra-sonication, Pickering emulsions, etc.).
Innovative encapsulation systems to improve the stability of active ingredients in formulated media and their controlled and targeted release during application, and thus increase their effectiveness.
Better understand the phenomena of instability of complex media in order to anticipate problems and thus allow new formulations to be developed more quickly.
New innovative and / or time-saving and energy-saving processes for the formulation and physico-chemical characterization: (microfluidics, sonication, etc.).
Develop innovative / alternative evaluation methods for the organoleptic properties of products freeing all or part of in vivo approaches by using physicochemical approaches.
Alternative to conventional emulsions (use of hydrotropes, dry emulsions ...).

Research topics

Develop new biological models closer to human skin by taking into account:
• the different cell types (melanocytes, endothelial cells) and their cooperation in skin homeostasis;
• skin differences according to the parts of the body (thin, thick skin, mucous membrane, subject to friction), according to types (Caucasian, Asian skin, etc.), according to age and sex (hormonal influence).
Develop the fundamental knowledge on the biology of the skin necessary to develop new strategies in dermocosmetics, skin glycobiology for example (active ingredients, vectorization, targeting, etc.).
Improve imaging techniques to assess the effectiveness of active ingredients directly on the skin.
Develop fundamental knowledge about the skin microbiota, these relationships with other skin cells, its impact on the functioning and aging of the skin.
Develop scientifically valid and alternative methods to animal testing to comply with the new European regulations on cosmetic products (European cosmetic regulation 1223/2009).
Develop cellular and reconstituted skin models that are even more relevant and complex, integrating a consideration of the physicochemical microenvironment of the skin: construction of new cellular models more faithful to the specific conditions of the skin (physioxy on which the redox status of the skin depends) in order to test the efficacy and toxicity of active ingredients under conditions closer to in situ.
Identify new biological targets (regulation of pigmentation, cutaneous barrier passage, etc.) expressed in the conditions closest to in situ.
Develop calculation means to predict cellular behavior and the penetration of active ingredients.

Research topics

Develop new biological models closer to human skin by taking into account:
• the different cell types (melanocytes, endothelial cells) and their cooperation in skin homeostasis;
• skin differences according to the parts of the body (thin, thick skin, mucous membrane, subject to friction), according to types (Caucasian, Asian skin, etc.), according to age and sex (hormonal influence).
Develop the fundamental knowledge on the biology of the skin necessary to develop new strategies in dermocosmetics, skin glycobiology for example (active ingredients, vectorization, targeting, etc.).
Improve imaging techniques to assess the effectiveness of active ingredients directly on the skin.
Develop fundamental knowledge about the skin microbiota, these relationships with other skin cells, its impact on the functioning and aging of the skin.
Develop scientifically valid and alternative methods to animal testing to comply with the new European regulations on cosmetic products (European cosmetic regulation 1223/2009).
Develop cellular and reconstituted skin models that are even more relevant and complex, integrating a consideration of the physicochemical microenvironment of the skin: construction of new cellular models more faithful to the specific conditions of the skin (physioxy on which the redox status of the skin depends) in order to test the efficacy and toxicity of active ingredients under conditions closer to in situ.
Identify new biological targets (regulation of pigmentation, cutaneous barrier passage, etc.) expressed in the conditions closest to in situ.
Develop calculation means to predict cellular behavior and the penetration of active ingredients.

Research topics

Safety of bioactives, ingredients and formulations.
Influence of cosmetic formulations on the cutaneous microenvironment.
Stability and storage of formulations.
Anticipation of upcoming demand for safety testing.
Container-content interactions in cosmetic packaging: participation in the working group on packaging safety.
Identification of metabolically active skin germs (high throughput RT-PCR).
Phages and bacteria-phage interactions within the skin microbiota.
Influence of pollutants on skin microflora and protective effect of cosmetic active ingredients.
High-throughput in vitro skin sensitization methods.

Research topics

Safety of bioactives, ingredients and formulations.
Influence of cosmetic formulations on the cutaneous microenvironment.
Stability and storage of formulations.
Anticipation of upcoming demand for safety testing.
Container-content interactions in cosmetic packaging: participation in the working group on packaging safety.
Identification of metabolically active skin germs (high throughput RT-PCR).
Phages and bacteria-phage interactions within the skin microbiota.
Influence of pollutants on skin microflora and protective effect of cosmetic active ingredients.
High-throughput in vitro skin sensitization methods.

GDR 3711 COSM’ACTIFS

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